Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Baby Animals, Butterflies,and Box Turtles! ( Lick Creek/ Macon County Preserves)



 It was the last weekend before school started, so I decided to spend much of the weekend hiking.


First stop was at the marshes of Lick Creek Wildlife Area,  This rarely-explored nature preserve is one of the best stops for herps (reptiles and amphibians) in Sangamon County.  While somewhat overtaken by invasive species, it nevertheless has large populations of much local wildlife. Mosquitoes, especially, are common.  I'm not going to sugarcoat it;  I had about thirty bites in five minutes of hiking, though they let up after that.  That might be why this preserve is rarely visited.


I'm not sure whether these are cute or disturbing, but they're baby mice likely of an uncertain brown and white mouse species that escaped into a hole.  I went to move the log above the hole, and it broke apart, exposing the poor baby mice.  I snapped only one quick photo before hastily replacing as much as I could.  Hollow logs are favorite places for mice to live and this log on the edge of the marsh would have been excellent for the mice to raise a family.


I trekked out into the marsh, which, in spots, is about two feet deep.  I know this because my rubber boots are not quite that high, and I sunk them a bit too deep into the muck.  This may look like a grassy lawn, but it is nearly impassable.  This marsh is considered to possibly be one of the haunts of the Kirtland's Snake, a shy, small, State-Threatened species.  I've never seen one here, but I have friends who have.  By the way, birders, the Kirtland's Snake was named for the same naturalist as was the Kirtland's Warbler, the Midwest's rarest bird.  Two of the rarest Midwesterners, both named after the same man, Jared Potter Kirtland, whose diverse achievements are described here.  He has a good first name, in my opinion.


There is an even deeper section of the marsh where the cattails grow, but I never made it out that far, as the water would grow too deep for me.  I need to invest in waders.


I did manage to reach a willow pool.  I don't know if there's a technical term, but the willows that grow in the middle of the marsh seem to grow in deeper pockets and shade out the marsh grasses.  It's here, on the root masses of the willow trees, that some of the local animals congregate.


A few plants grow in the soil accumulated around the willow's roots, and on one of these plants, I found an immature Gray Treefrog (Hyla spp.)  Yes, I said GRAY Treefrog.  These frogs are green when they're young, and sometimes on other occasions when they change color to camoflage themselves.  Gray Treefrog is the name for two species here, only distinguishable by call.


Back out in the marsh, I found a pocket of aquatic Liverworts (Ricciocarpus natans), which occupy the ecological niche in this marsh that Duckweeds (Lemna spp.) occupy in Lick Creek itself.  I wonder if this is tied to PH or some other factor.  The water in the marsh is unusually dark, probably acidic in PH.  Despite its depth, I've never seen fish swimming in it, although there are many invertebrates such as crayfish, dragonfly larvae, and water fleas.


Speaking of invertebrates, I found this dragonfly larvae shed earlier in the day.  This is much like the cicada shells that cicadas leave behind, but I found it on the edge of a puddle.


Winding my way along the edge of the marsh to the banks of the main creek, I disturbed something in the undergrowth and investigated further:


Well!  This is a Western Chorus Frog (Pseudacris triseriata), a VERY common frog here back in March and April, but which seems to vanish from the world after May.  Actually, they stop breeding then, and as a nocturnal species, they tend to be harder to find when they're not calling for a mate.


The other reason this frog is hard to find is its brown-striped camouflage, which allows it to blend in with the dead grasses present everywhere on the ground.  My personal guess as to why I found this frog is that the area it was in flooded due to high water levels from the flood a couple weeks back.


Broad-leaved Arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia) also grows in this marsh, its large leaves giving the plant its name.  Generally, I find it only on the outskirts of the marsh.


Also present along the outskirts of the marsh was this juvenile Dekay's Brown Snake (Storeria dekayi), one of my favorite snakes due to its small size and tameness when caught. I recently had the experience of watching someone play with a large jumping spider, calling it cute as it ran along their hand. I wish I liked spiders more, but I instinctively dislike them, so I thought this person was a little nuts to be handling a perfectly harmless spider.  It occurred to me that other people probably think I'm nuts when I handle the Dekay's Snakes, however.  I do find these little serpents "cute".  After a couple photos, I let the snake go back under its log and hiked off, only to find a second Dekay's in a tarp:


I left Lick Creek shortly thereafter, but I'll come back to a bug I found there in a bit.  The following day, a Sunday, I left after church to visit the three Illinois Nature Preserves in Macon County.  In the order that I visited them, that's Calamus Lake, Spitler Woods (which is also a State Natural Area) and Bois du Sangamon.  I crossed the vast wastelands of cornfields along the Sangamon River Valley to reach Calamus Lake, one of the few remaining intact oxbow wetlands in the Valley.  These are wastelands, after all, barren of most plant life excluding corn and soybeans.


Calamus Lake seemed to be a different sort of "wasteland" altogether.  It isn't a wasteland, but an old-growth wetland not accessible to humans.  I walked along the outer edge, but a wall of Buttonbush, so old as to be entirely covered in slick mosses, growing above water over a foot deep, kept me out of the lake for the most part.  Silver Maples (Acer saccharinum) grew around the edge of the marsh, though the vast majority were fairly young.  Around them, in yet another wall, grew the thickest and tallest Poison Ivy I had ever seen.  Past all of this was a levee with a gravel road on top, and mixed prairie restoration, low woods, and cornfields beyond.


I walked to the top of the levee, where I found this Monarch... no, it isn't a Monarch at all!  Several Viceroy Butterflies (Limenitis archippus) rested on the gravel road, distinguishable from the Monarch by smaller size, darker coloration, and slight differences in wing veining, especially on the lower wings (hindwings).  Only the Viceroy has a diagonal black line on the hindwing that does not bend significantly in the middle.  Viceroy Caterpillars feed on Willows and Cottenwoods, both of which are in abundance here in this swampy wetland.


I returned to the swamp, found a "gap" in the Buttonbush wall, and made a discovery about the place. Calamus Lake,  is no lake at all.  I found no open water that was not covered by Smartweed (Polygonum spp.) Willows (Salix spp.) or Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis).  This was something different, but it was no lake.  Nor was there any Calamus.  Smartweed Swamp would be a far better name than Calamus Lake, considering that Smartweed makes up most of the plant growth seen in the picture below.


A couple of Dragonflies landed near me, and I decided to try photographing them, whilst sinking deeper into the mire.  If you haven't figured it out already, Calamus Lake is not for ordinary people.  That's fine.  It's a nature preserve for nature, decidedly not for people.


This Eastern Pondhawk (Erythemis simplicicollis) perched on a leaf only arm's length from me.   The sun illuminated every hair and vein on its body.


This other dragonfly, which remained in the shadow, I don't have a name for yet.  Help, anyone?


Having made it into the swamp, it took considerably more effort to get out, as I lost my way several times, staggering under Buttonbushes and through sections of water as high as my boots.  That's not to say I didn't have a good time, as I did hear a Pileated Woodpecker and find this unknown waterlily.  Still, it was with much relief that I made it back to the gravel road, where I found more butterflies:


While the Buckeye (Junonia coenia) is a common butterfly, there were some rarer butterflies also:


This is the uncommon Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebis sennae), a butterfly I've never seen before.  These butterflies, just like Monarchs or Buckeyes, migrate south for the winter, some of the few insects which do.  Among the others are dragonflies, which have one of the least-studied migrations in all of science. Cloudless Sulphers, on the other hand, migrate to Florida and the Caribbean.

In summary of Calamus Lake, there's no lake, there's no calamus, and the most interesting part is the large butterfly population, mostly on the road itself.  On to Spitler Woods went I.


The first notable creature at Spitler Woods was this White-tailed Deer (Odocoileus virginianus), which I startled.  It seems to be suffering from some sort of problem with its fur.   White-tailed Deer are the largest wild mammals in Illinois, to my knowledge (although there are several curious anecdotes about bears, big cats, and Bigfoot roaming the cornfields in small towns in Illinois.)


After watching the deer for a bit, I moved on, finding a Bronze Grape Fern  (Botrychium [Sceptridium] dissectum subsp. obliquum), which is both highly uncommon and badly photographed.  It's a new species for me, in a genus of plants that holds some of the rarest ferns in both Illinois and North America.  These plants only grow in areas of high-quality woodland, where they can use soil fungi (mycorrhizae) to provide them with nutrients.  I went to Spitler Woods partly in search of another mycorrhizal-dependant plant, Indian Pipes, but I was unable to find it.  I'll settle for a new fern, I suppose.  It is one of my life goals to study how plants rely on mycorrhizae, especially in woodlands, to stay alive.  Many of Illinois' rarest and strangest woodland plants depend on an underground connecting web of mycorrhizal fungi to survive.  These fungi connect every plant in the woods underground, transferring nutrients across the soil.


Here, you can see the sporangia, which give this plant its name of Grape Fern by their appearance. For the majority of you, I've probably spent far too long dwelling on this fern, but as a fern, mycorrhizal-dependant, and a plant, it piques my interest.  I moved on from it after a couple of quick photos, and came to a set of bridges over a creek.  Which would I take?


I took neither bridge, and walked along the creekbed itself, looking for strange plants or animals.


Among the growth at the edge of the creek, I found this stem of Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) berries.  Do NOT eat these, as they contain calcium oxalate crystals. What that means the average man is that they will give you an intense burning sensation in your mouth, severe stomach cramps, and kidney stones. in that order.  It won't kill you, but it would be extremely painful.


I then found a slight hole in the bank, where all but the uppermost layer of soil had washed away, leaving a hole where the roots were exposed.  Nothing lived back here beyond a few insects, so I continued down the creek, flipping stones idly and finding this after a while:


Several Crayfish lived in the creek, hidden under the stones and blending in with the mud and pebbles.  Continuing along the bank, I found several strange objects:




These are the tubers of the Dutchman's Breeches (Dicentra cucullaria) spring wildflower, unearthed by erosion. I wandered about the woodland for a few hours.  Spitler Woods seemed like a small place at the beginning of the hike, but with over two hundred acres of woods here, I could wander all day.


Finally, I found the trail and this unusual bridge over the creek.  I took it back to the parking lot, swiping off four spiders on the way back.  I was too alarmed by their prescence to take a picture.  These were Spined Micrathenas, a common and unusual-looking web-weaving woodland spider.  I found at least a hundred in Spitler Woods, and several at the other locations.  After taking the last spider off me, I went on to the last preserve, Bois Du Sangamon.


Bois Du Sangamon is a woodland just across Lake Decatur, and as a result, it smells like Decatur.  If you've never been to Decatur, it has a corn ethanol plant, which accounts for the smell, a cross between burned popcorn and gasoline.  This smell is occasionally attributed to soybeans.  It's strong enough in this preserve that it nearly made me sick on arriving.  I walked down this tunnel-like old road (barred by a gate), to its end, assuming that this would be an odorous waste of time.


First, I found this fern.  I've seen this species of fern before, but I've never actually identified it.  It looks like some species of Asplenium, possibly Asplenium trichomanes, but I doubt that.  Finding this fern was a sign of how good this area was to prove in a few minutes:


This is the first ADULT Eastern Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina) and the first one I've ever photographed.  I'm fairly certain of my identification of the baby Box Turtle last year, but this was a definite Box Turtle.  He's hiding in his shell, currently, so I picked him up, took a video of him, which will be posted later, and put him back in the tin can he was previously hiding in.


Later,  I returned to the same spot, where the turtle had its head out, showing off its red eyes.  This is a beautiful and rare animal.  People collect these for pets quite often, and as a result the Eastern Box Turtle has become quite rare.  The other reason these turtles are in decline is that they are run over by cars.  It's been a goal of mine this year to find one for months now, and I finally did.


After that encounter, I walked all the way along the path to Lake Decatur, the reservoir of the only dam on the Sangamon River and one of the larger lakes in Central Illinois.  It often has toxic levels of agricultural pollutants thanks to the fertilizers used on crops upstream.  As a result, there are a number of county-level nature preserves along the banks of the river, designed to reduce pollution.


This may look like one moth, but it's actually TWO moths mating, as I discovered when I disturbed them post taking this picture.  I don't know my moths, so no identification.


This butterfly, however, I could identify, as a Red-spotted Purple (Limenitis arthemis), a close relative of the Viceroy shown earlier.  Like the Viceroy, this butterfly is also imitating a poisonous species, the Pipevine Swallowtail.  However, the Pipevine Swallowtail is far rarer in Illinois.


Finally, as I returned to my car on this fine day, I found this in front of me.  The deer vanished as I approached, but it was a nice Fifth Orchid to a fine, laid-back weekend of exploring Illinois nature.

Friday, August 26, 2016

Matthiessen State Park- 1 Year Anniversary!

It has been about a year since I published my first blogpost on this blog.  Man, that's hard to believe.  I recently figured out that I've seen 76 birds, 8 reptiles, 4 amphibians  3 mammals, and 70-odd flowers  new to me, and I visited 20 nature preserves new to me, since I first started working on this blog on August 29 of last year. I've written 93 published blogposts in that time, mostly about Central Illinois.  When I first started writing this blog I wasn't sure how much I could write about Central Illinois, as at first glance it appears to be a Lincoln-obsessed cornfield.  It's ironic that in this particular blogpost, I'm revisiting the first place that convinced me Illinois was more than corn and soybeans. Matthiessen is one of the first state parks I visited when I was younger, and its beauty, rockiness, and large number of plant species made me far more interested in Illinois than ever before.

The day after finding that Little Blue Heron at Lake Springfield Beach, a friend and I took a road trip to Matthiessen, which is in northern Illinois, just across from Starved Rock State Park.  I liked it a bit better in the past than Starved Rock, however, mostly due to its lack of crowds.  That preference was tested a bit on this trip.


In  order to explore an area neither of us had ever been to, we pulled off along the Vermilion River section of the park.  This is also known as the river bluffs section,  On the route in, I discovered the Hog Peanut (Amphicarpaea bracteata) above, a native plant new to me, although fairly common here in Illinois.   As I've begun hiking a LOT more this year, it has become apparent that I really haven't seen many of our native plants or animals.  As you read above, I've done a bit to rectify that, but not enough.  Of course, there never will be enough.  If there's one thing I love about exploring nature, it's that there are endless discoveries just waiting to be made.

Indeed, we made a discovery as we hiked down into the valley: a spot with open bluffs and some boulder fields below.  Large cliffs are rare in Illinois outside of the Mississippi River Valley, and on a smaller river like the Vermilion, large cliffs are even rarer.  Also, this section of the Vermilion River, between Lowell and Oglesby, is one of the few places in all of Illinois to have whitewater rapids.


We  came to the edge of the water, as had a few bathers and fishermen, to see the rapids.  Large gravel beaches opposite looked inviting, but there was no way we were crossing the river.  One curious fact about the Vermilion River is that there are two of them, both flowing in opposite directions, but with headwaters in the same general area, a former upland marsh near Roberts, Illinois.  This one flows into the Illinois River, and the other flows into the Wabash River.  Both contain a number of high-quality nature preserves and are among Illinois' most scenic rivers.  The Middle Fork of the other Vermilion River is Illinois' only National Wild and Scenic River.  With a bit of sediment removal, this river could probably qualify for the same.


This section of Illinois is also among the most geologically diverse.  I found crinoid fossils, granite, limestone, sandstone (the cliffs in the area are mostly sandstone) and fool's gold (iron pyrites):


Among all these rocks, I was surprised at the lack of snakes or frogs.  That's not to say there was nothing interesting, as I've never seen this unusual species of grasshopper before:


Picking our way along the edge of the river, we made it to the base of the bluffs.


Along the way, we found Monkey Flower (Mimulus ringens), the more northern of the two common Monkey Flowers in Illinois.  I only found my first earlier this summer at White Pines Forest.


A degraded prairie awaited us at the base of the bluff, with several Goldenrods, among other flowers.


At  the very bottom, we found wet clay.  This part of Illinois is one of the few to contain claypits.


The cliffs themselves were up to fifty feet high, and the steepness of the boulder field at their base made them inaccessible.  We stood at the base of the cliffs for a few minutes, before the heat and time drove us back to the treeline.  After that, we had lunch in our car.


While driving to the more well-used Dells section of Matthiessen State Park, we saw that the parking lot was almost filled, and dozens of people were milling about the entrance.  This did not bode well.  We abandoned our plans of visiting Starved Rock, which is usually far busier at the best of times, and contented ourselves with dodging the crowds at Matthiessen's "dells".


After walking quite a ways past several screaming children, barking dogs, and noisy families, I found a Eurybia aster on top of the bluffs, with several small, brightly-colored bees or wasps on it:


Also on top of the bluffs was a state-threatened tree, the Northern White Cedar (Thuja occidentalis):


This tree is a northern plant brought this far south likely by glaciers.  Several dozen of these trees grow on the rim of the "dells", actually one large canyon containing a stream flowing south into the  Vermilion River- the north-flowing one. You can see why two Vermilion Rivers is confusing.


As  we walked into the canyon, we found this large millipede (Narceus spp.), about four inches long. This millipede is among the largest invertebrate animals in our area.  Also, yes, it is pooping.


All over the walls of the canyon, various liverworts (above), mosses and ferns grew.  The permanent shade of the canyon was also about ten degrees cooler than on the bluffs above.  This microclimate makes for excellent summer hiking, and there were large numbers of people around to prove that.  I had to time my shots in order to avoid getting people in the picture:


This area is supposed to be an excellent place for salamanders, and I suspect that it is.  However, I have never seen one.  Then again, I haven't stopped to flip many rocks, which is the best way to find salamanders.  As we were on a bit of a time crunch, we kept moving.


I did stop to photograph any unusual plants we found, including this fern I haven't identified.


We  continued up the creek, where the creek became underlain with sandstone.  Eventually, we reached the top of the canyon, at Lake Falls.


The upper part of Lake Falls is actually a dam, so this waterfall is at least partially artificial.  Above the waterfall is a lake and a privately-owned golf course.


On  the way back, I photographed this natural arch.  A friend of mine squeezed through it, and it's certainly a tight fit.  Don't try this at home, or here.


Further downriver, a fence bars access to the top of Cascade Falls, the dividing point between the generally rock-bottomed, narrower Upper Dells and the soil-bottomed, wider Lower Dells.  That bridge above is where I got the picture earlier overlooking the Lower Dells.


Several mineral springs in the Lower Dells result in streams with scarlet waters.  It almost seems as if the ground is bleeding in several places.  Also, there's a TON of mud.


The surrounding cliffs, some fifty or more feet high and whitened with lichens, funneled the crowd as we walked towards the waterfall.  I took this picture during a rare crowd-free moment. Here's what happens when I don't wait for those fleeting crowd-free moments:




There were at least a hundred people, probably two hundred, in this small, narrow canyon, splashing about in the water, complaining loudly about the mud or just bumbling about.  My friend and I didn't exactly diminish the numbers, so I can't complain too much.


The area is understandably lovely, but it needs a little more protection.  The first fine weekend towards the end of the summer in any natural area near Chicago does mean crowds.  However, when I see people glued to their cell phones while letting their dogs or kids run free, many chiseled names in the rock that were put there since I last visited, upwards of fifty discarded water bottles (in the upper dells alone). and about a hundred people illegally swimming in every possible body of water, it makes me a bit depressed at the large crowd.


Also, at least twenty wet, muddy pairs of socks were thrown down at various points and left there. This really took me over the edge.  JUST, WHY!  THERE'S GARBAGE CANS FOR THIS! It's a good thing I never saw anyone throw off a water bottle or pair of socks. I mean that it's a good thing for them.  Environmentalist rage is one of the purest forms of anger, and as this place was one of the parks that helped to spark my love of botany and Illinois nature, seeing it degraded infuriates me.


Thankfully, there were still many ferns to love. My friend and I decided to venture downstream to get away from the people.  By the way, neither I or the DNR recommend going south of the last staircase.


At  the base of the cliffs, several swamp and wet prairie wildflowers bloomed.  A couple of rarer plants are supposed to be found here, but I observed none of these.


The mineral-rich scarlet waters from the largest mineral spring, Devils Paintbox, run into a nearby creek.  The Lower Dells has several of these, most in varying shades of orange-scarlet.


My  guess is that iron is the contaminant making the waters so red, but I really have no idea.  I am fairly sure that the name Vermilion River comes from the reddish hues of these springs near its banks.


Either way, this part of the gorge has several differing fern species, none of which I identified.


As we walked along the canyon, we saw the end approaching.  It was at this point that the mud made it virtually impassible. Several times, I nearly fell into the creek or the mud, it was so slick.  Eventually, I managed to pass by and we scrambled out onto the rocks alongside the river.


The river at this point was beautiful.  Slanted rocks on our side gave way to gentle rapids and a large gravel island near the far bank.  Of course, a picture does it better justice.  A few bathers swam upstream of us, but for the most part, the area was crowd-free.  There's probably a rule against straying from the trail, and knowing the muddy conditions, I wouldn't walk that way again.  Still, it was a fine day, and I'm always glad to have gone hiking.  Despite the crowds and trash, Matthiessen is still one of my favorite state parks in Illinois.  It's places like this that inspire me to keep working on this blog, a year from when I started it.




Hopefully, I'll still be doing this a year from now.  I'd love to work on this blog my whole life.  Of course, when I move out of central Illinois, it'll need a bit of a title change.  Although, Abraham Lincoln lived on Earth, so I could qualify that Earth is the wild Land of Lincoln in the big picture.  I do like inoffensively anachronistic titles.  We'll have to see.  Either way, it's been a fun year of blogging so far, and I will likely keep on blogging for awhile yet.

By the way, it's really, really hard to photograph your shadow, even when it looks almost like Indiana Jones with the hat you're wearing.  Happy trails.