(I am continuing from a previous post about a recent trip to the sandlands of Mason County, Illinois) So, the morning after Manito Prairie, I visited Sand Ridge State Forest. This preserve rests atop several large sand dunes, planted over by both native deciduous and coniferous trees. Sections, such as Henry Allan Gleason Nature Preserve (shown above), remain unplanted and in a more natural state. Pockets of sand prairie also dot the landscape, which is far more reminiscent of an area further west than the center of Illinois. Unusual flora and fauna abound here.
Sand Ridge is known as a fine birding area, and as this Indigo Bunting (Passerina cyanea) proves, it certainly is. Indigo Buntings are not particularly rare birds, but their bright blue color and happy song make them a welcome bird everywhere.
This female Baltimore Oriole (Icterus galbula) appeared in the same area. It was one of ten that day.
Signs of the unusual climate included Western Wallflower (Erysimum capitatum), a fairly rare species anywhere east of the Mississippi River. The Illinois River Valley and the adjacent sandlands have the largest population in the East, so unlike in most of its eastern range this species is not endangered or threatened in Illinois. It is, however, uncommon, and thus an excellent plant to find. The leaves on this individual seem atypical of the species, which ordinarily has smooth edges to its leaves.
Hoary Puccoon (Lithospermum canescens) was extremely common here as well, in the clearings.,,
... like the one in the picture! Patches of short grasses and a few flowers mingled with woodland.
These unusual ferns stood almost straight up from the ground. I do not know what they were. They grew in a moist depression, where a bit of groundwater made the soil a bit wetter. A large aquifer runs under this mass of soil, and in places the water table is quite high. (Edit: After more research, this fern is Ebony Spleenwort, Asplenium platyneuron.)
Unusual lichens also proliferated on the logs, here in a coniferous forest.
Eastern Prickly Pear (Opuntia humifusa) is one of the most common plants in this area, and I recommend watching your step when hiking anywhere in Mason County's sandy districts.
Sand/Cleft Phlox (Phlox bifida) is almost out of flower, but I found these flowers hanging on,
Ohio Spiderwort (Tradescantia ohiensis) is in full flower now, however, and is one of the most common plants in all of Central Illinois. Its other common name of Widow's Tears comes from its most fascinating trait. After flowering, the petals congeal into a clear liquid, like tears.
Big mounds were everywhere, and I have no idea what dug them. Pocket Gophers are supposed to be present in the area, and I will assume that the mounds are the result of these mammals.
I really can't resist an opportunity to photograph an Eastern Phoebe (Sayornis phoebe). At this point, I decided to wander off towards Henry Allan Gleason Nature Preserve. Word of warning: Google Maps is not to be trusted when finding nature preserves. It works for state parks, but I had a hard time finding this particular nature preserve, probably due to the fact that it is surrounded by private property. As an aside, I went looking for Prairie Trout Lily earlier this year in Denby Prairie Nature Preserve, and Google Maps did NOT have the correct location for that, resulting in a failed expedition and thus no blog about it.
Also, when I arrived at Henry Allan Gleason Nature Preserve, there was a fairly intact deer skeleton in the parking lot:
I walked down a narrow pathway cut in a second-growth forest for about a quarter mile, and arrived at a dune. On top of the dune, a number of antlion pits could be seen. Antlions, for the unfamiliar, are the larval stage of a specialized fly-like insect. They dig these depressions in the soil and wait for ants and other small insects to fall in. They then ambush and eat the insects which fall in. These are quite remarkable insects, and this was the largest population I had ever seen. I did not disturb the insects, not even for a photo, and left the remarkable traps intact.
One of the goal species of this expedition was the Six-lined Racerunner (Aspidoscelis sexlineata), yet another southern/western species found in an unusual location. Thanks to the Illinois and Mississippi river valleys, this lizard ranges north as far as Minnesota and Indiana, otherwise confined to the South and the central to southern Great Plains. This lizard is a rare species in Illinois, almost exclusive to the three largest river valleys (the Illinois, Mississippi, and Ohio rivers, to clarify). I saw at least two of them, one of which is below. They deserve their name of Racerunner. Most lizards are fast, but even on the cool day I visited, these lizards were the fastest I have seen.
Nearby lay the sand dunes for which this area is so famous. The main reason Henry Allan Gleason Nature Preserve (henceforth H.A. Gleason) is Silvery Bladderpod, a species only found here in Illinois. The closest "eastern" population is in Wisconsin. For more information, see here. Now, I had come to this preserve to see this particular species. Guess what I could not find, despite it being blooming season for this bright yellow-flowered plant in a remarkably drab location?
To be fair, there were plenty of distractions, namely the wildness of the place. I felt as if I had walked out of the forest near the entrance into another state. To the northeast, a wetter prairie reminded me exactly where I was, but the dry, open sand dunes make this preserve feel so alien to the traditional corn-farming black-soiled former tallgrass prairie state of Illinois.
Several strange plants and animals completed the feeling. I do not know what this is, although it reminds me of a Milk Vetch (Astragalus sp.) for no definite reason. (Edit: This is almost certainly Goat's Rue, Tephrosia virginica, a common sand prairie species.)
Earthstar fungi sprouted near the stunted oak trees on the edge of the dune.
This tiny composite flower, looking like a minute dandelion, had leaves smaller than the flower, and the flower was about the size of my middle fingernail. That's small!
Another goal species, Lark Sparrows (Chondestes grammacus) were very common here. This is a predominately Western species, though reported from every Eastern state. The facial pattern is one of the most distinctive of all sparrows. While not "rare", per say. Lark Sparrows are more common in the dry sandy grasslands of the West. In the East, they are concentrated around suitable habitat, such as prairie preserves, glades, dunes, and beaches.
Large clumps of fruticose lichens of various species grew on the ground among the cactus. You know it's a nature preserve when there's lichen growing on the ground. That, and it's a harsh climate.
Overall, H.A. Gleason just resembles a desert. It is the greatest, and the only, desert in central Illinois, and it is probably one of the wildest places I have ever visited. I was by myself at the time, and I felt very alone in the wide open space, even though this prairie is probably about ten acres in size or just slightly more. This is an area that feels vast, where even in spring everything crunches under your feet. No wonder so much Western flora and fauna feel at home here.
More Earthstars and some red-tipped lichens grew in a barren spot among the grasses. I hold a great deal of respect for the farmers in Mason County, who took such a dry and barren spot and turned it into one of the most productive Illinois farming counties. While I don't generally like the wide-scale farming done in this state, which has removed over 80% of the native growth from the land, I do appreciate the efforts undertaken.
Yet more mounds appeared. Badgers live in this area, but I never saw any holes large enough for one. Clearly, the Pocket Gophers, Ground Squirrels, or whatever it is are having fun digging here.
After some research, I realize that this is my first Grasshopper Sparrow (Ammodramus savannarum) another prairie species. So far this year, I have seen Lincoln's, Lark, Field, Song, Swamp, Chipping, and now Grasshopper Sparrows. I really, really want to find Henslow's Sparrow next.
Pale Beardtongue (Penstemon pallidus) flowered in several patches in the dry prairie.
Did I mention that there were lots of Lark Sparrows?
On the way out, I spotted this unusual small moth in the grass. I have no idea what it is, but it is easily the most visually spectacular insect of the trip, beating out the antlions. Anyone know the name of this moth? If it's rare, let me know as well. I know generally what a moth is, and that is the limit of my moth-related knowledge. I call this a moth, because it has a thicker body.
Overall, though I didn't get to see the plant I wanted to, Sand Ridge State Forest and H.A. Gleason Nature Preserve were more than worth a visit. It certainly is an experience to visit the greatest desert in central Illinois, even if it is the only desert. I will be returning for certain. I realized, after leaving, that I had only covered half of the preserve, and now I have only half remaining to search.
Silvery Bladderpod, I'm coming for you.
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